Bourik in Sodo

Goats, chickens, cows, and bulls, are very much the sacrificial animals (not Bourik BOS) of Haiti and voodooists. Like turkeys in the United States near Thanksgiving these animals in Haiti get the shakes sometime near July 16th, when Festival Saut d’Eau takes place. Sodo, in Kreyòl, is the site of one of Haiti’s largest religious pilgrimages. Lore has it that the Virgin Mary appeared here long before the death of many the sacrificial fauna.

Thousands from around the country and abroad come here to ask for what they don’t have, need more of, or believe the waters will heal their pangs, as well as bless their children, get smashed, dance and for some of the unfortunate beasts listed above give something to the spirits. Young, old, women, men, children, babies on backs, crippled and strong, they start arriving days before the 16th and you can see their dedication staggering along all the torn roads in every direction that meet at Sodo. Many of the men who feel the weight of the walk since long leaving their village early some morning days or weeks before arriving dress in rugged rural clothing donning all likes of straw lids and impressive black cowboy hats.

Some very distinctly fit with an older tradition attached to the waters that have flowed far, evaporated, rained, fed the earth, from the first time they’ve bathed here as children, they carry with them machetes, longer beards and the memories of Sodo’s past. From the same journey equally weathered women flow past on the final leg to Sodo as early as 4 in the morning with songs to saints and spirits just the same. Their marching feet drag in accompaniment to their song as their graceful dresses of denim and heavy fabrics jeweled with multicolored kerchiefs follow their adrenaline to the cascading waters to bathe. And bathe they do some for hours and hours.

They come with offerings of kleren (moonshine), portraits of saints, and blue and white cords representing the Mont Carmel colors around their waists, knees, arms, and hats. Powerful aromas of basil, dandelion, and spices take over the air as believers mash together the greens, soaps and perfumes in calabash bowls making a poultice to lather with. There are group washings, partners, and loners. The water is cool and the mid day sun strong. The song and music join the cacophony overwhelming the senses of any creature present and still alive.

Bourik although made to live under the miserable career of a pack animal in Haiti is fortunate to be one of those alive unlike some of the other hoofed brethren brought to this magnificent event. Although Bourik lands an interview here at Sodo he listens more than he talks and learns a little more about the intricacies of Haiti, Haitians, and cultures. Bourik at Sodo and with Ti Ko. (Sodo photos)

BOS: What is that you’re drinking?
Ti Ko: Gulp, gulp, gulp.
BOS: What is that you’re drinking?
Ti Ko: ahhhhhh…
BOS: What is that you’re drinking?
Some Voice Nearby: Kleren
BOS: You drink Kleren?
Ti Ko: (shaking head up and down)
BOS: Do you like it?
Ti Ko: (shaking head up and down)
Other Voice: He likes it with Sprite.
Another Voice: I told you not to drink anymore! Put it down!
Ti Ko: (unscrews top again and takes a swig)
Voice Again: I told you not to drink anymore! Stop!
BOS: How long have you been drinking Kleren?
Ti Ko: (blank stare)
BOS: Did you start drinking it this morning?
Ti Ko: (blank stare)
BOS: Do you like the taste?
Ti Ko: (takes another swig. shakes head up and down)
BOS: How old are you?
Voice Nearby: He’s THREE! And that’s his mom!
Mom: Stop drinking that!

Kreyòl Version

BOS: Kisa wap bwe la?
Ti Ko: Gulp, gulp, gulp.
BOS: Kisa wap bwe la?
Ti Ko: ahhhhhh…
BOS: Kisa wap bwe la?
Some Voice Nearby: Kleren
BOS: Ou bwe kleren?
Ti Ko: (shaking head up and down)
BOS: Eske ou renmen li?
Ti Ko: (shaking head up and down)
Other Voice: Li renmen li avek Sprite.
Another Voice: M te di ou pa bwe anko! Kite!
Ti Ko: (unscrews top again and takes a swig)
Voice Again: M te di ou pa bwe anko! Rete!
BOS: Konbyen ane wap bwe kleren?
Ti Ko: (blank stare)
BOS: Eske ou te komanse bwe li maten?
Ti Ko: (blank stare)
BOS: Eske ou renmen gou a?
Ti Ko: (takes another swig. shakes head up and down)
BOS: Ki laj ou genyen?
Voice Nearby: Li gen twazan! E sa a se mama li!
Mom: Pa bwe l anko!